I am very excited to announce that Flying Buffalo Woodworks has added it's first cutting board to our website. This is a new avenue for our creativity and I am really looking forward to the potential that this direction will contribute to our overall success in providing our customers with the very best handmade products. Please feel free to provide your thoughts on our new product line.
First Cutting Board made of Maple and Purple Heart!
Some of the most beautiful wood in the world can be toxic to the woodturner. I came across an excellent article today about wood and dust toxicity that provided a color chart detailing out wood type, reaction, potency, risk etc. (See below)
It has been noted as far back as 60 A.D. that wood could adversely affect your health. However, only 2 to 5% of the population ever develop an allergic reaction.
Irritant wood sensitivity can manifest itself as a rash, similar to a poison ivy reaction. Some of the most common irritant woods are black locust, cocobolo, ebony, oleander, satinwood, sequoia, and yew.
When discussing sensitivities, let's not forget that mold can also live between the bark and sapwood. While this creates a wonderful spalting effect, the mold can cause severe respiratory problems.
Willow and birch both possess significant concentrations of salicylic acid which is a predecessor of aspirin. Ensure you take the proper precautions when working with these woods, especially if you have an aspirin allergy.
I have personally been extremely lucky in regards to wood toxicity. However, there is one wood that no matter how hard I try to protect myself, it gives me a stuffy nose which lasts for several days. Just as if I had a cold.
When reviewing the toxicity chart, I immediately scrolled down to find my particular culprit, Purpleheart. I did not find my specific symptoms listed, but I did find that it has a medium toxicity level and allergic reactions are fairly common.
So far we have focused on the potential toxicity issues for the woodturner, but what happens once we have a finished product? The short answer is that a sealed and finished wood project should not pose a toxic risk. However, each person has his or her own sensitivities. For example: Some individuals are allergic to nuts, so walnut wood or any item sealed with walnut oil might produce an allergic reaction for these individuals.
I have touched on some of the hi-lites, but I encourage you to click on the link below and read the entire article.
http://www.stripersonline.com/t/561510/wood-dust-toxicity
Wood Toxicity Chart
Index of Meanings
In part 1 we discussed the durability of end grain cutting boards and in part 2 the discussion was centered around which woods were the most durable.
Today we are going to delve into the cleaning and care of your cutting board. This is the area that I found has the most varied opinions. However, the one thing that everyone agrees on, is that prolonged moisture can ruin your investment. Never place your wood cutting board in a dishwasher or allow it to soak in water.
The following are a few suggestions on the best way to protect your cutting board:
1) Season your new cutting board. This may have already been done prior to your purchase, but it never hurts to apply a thin layer of food grade mineral oil to the entire board, sides included prior to the first use. You can also use mineral oil with beeswax and even walnut or almond oil. There are also several good "butcher block" oils on the market. Never use vegetable oil, olive oil etc. They will turn rancid and leave your cutting board smelling bad. Those smells can transfer to your food. Do not use nut oils if there is any chance of someone with a nut allergy coming in contact with foods chopped on a board maintained with these oils.
a) Heat oil slightly and apply with a clean dry cloth working with the grain. On the initial seasoning wait 4 to 6 hours for the oil to soak in and repeat 4 to 5 times...or as many times as it takes until the cutting board is no longer absorbing the oil. Use a dry cloth and remove any excess.
2) After each use, clean with hot soapy water (mild detergent). Do not submerge your board into the water. Dry immediately. Never use a steel brush on your wood cutting board. Instead use a good steel scraper or spatula. Scraping removes moisture build up.
a) For added protection you can also use undiluted white vinegar (keep a spray bottle handy). Allow to sit for 10 minutes and towel dry. This is a good disinfectant and can help guard against bacteria like E. coli, Salmonella and Staphylococcus.
3) How do I eliminate those pesky odors in my wood cutting board?
a) Spray with vinegar
b) Rub your board with fresh lemon
c) Rub your board with course salt and let stand a few minutes before rinsing
d) Apply baking soda and let stand a few minutes prior to rinsing
4) Re-oil as needed. There were numerous opinions as to what constitutes "as needed". Some say monthly, others when the board begins to look dull. I personally believe a thin coat of mineral oil should be applied after every use. This will help keep your board from soaking up those unwanted liquids and odors and extend the life of your investment.
Happy Chopping!
When looking for the perfect cutting board, the type of wood is a big factor. Wood cutting boards can be pricey and you want to make sure that you get the best board for your money.
No matter the type of wood, it should be kiln dried to resist warpage, checking and splitting. The most commonly used wood is rock Maple. You also can't go wrong with other good hardwoods like Brazilian Cherry, Teak or Walnut. Each of these make a striking cutting board when combined with Maple.
Tropical hardwoods like mahogany, purpleheart and bubinga, while beautiful can be a little less stable particularly in a wet environment, due to lignin and other resins that might not bond as well with the glue.
While hickory and ash are generally cheaper they are also lighter in weight and the color and grain are not spectacular.
I have only touched on a few wood possibilities and there are many opinions to be had on what types of wood make the best cutting boards, but you can never go wrong with a hard maple.
I hope that you found this blog informative. Feel free to share your experiences or contact me with any questions.
Be sure to stay tuned for Part 3, where we discuss the proper care of your cutting board to ensure it's longevity.